By Yedida Kalfon Stillman
Это хорошо иллюстрированное издание, представляет собой историческое и этнографическое исследование одного важного аспекта арабской и исламской материальной культуры - одежды. Описывается развитие и трансформация платья за прошедшие 1400 лет в большей части исламского мира: на Ближнем Востоке, Северной Африке, и в средневековой исламской Испании. Платье - часть исламской системы облачений, рассматриваемой в книге в рамках контекста социальных, религиозных, эстетических и политических тенденций каждого исторического периода.
В дополнение к пяти историческим главам, три главы посвящены главным темам истории арабского костюма - кодексу платья для не-мусульман, важному социально-экономическому и политическому значению роскошных тканей и предметов почётной одежды, и, наиболее известным, но часто неправильно истолковываемым, скрывающим элементам одеяния.Образцы сканов:
Read or Download Arab Dress: A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times PDF
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Additional info for Arab Dress: A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times
57 As noted above, he did not forbid such garments to women, except when they were in a state of iÈr§m. Although not anywhere near to the same degree as Judaism, Islam also exhibited considerable concern for ritual impurity caused, inter alia, by any issue or flux from the human sexual organs. Intercourse, menstruation, and seminal emissions rendered not only a person ritually unclean, but could also in certain circumstances render clothing touched by emissions impure and therefore unfit to be worn during prayer.
B§b 3; and al-TirmidhÊ, op. , b§b 27. 24 The siyar§" was both a mantle of Seres (Gk. Σηρες; Aramaic shÊr§) or Chinese silk and the fabric itself. Thus we find Èulla siyar§", burd siyar§", qamÊß ÈarÊr siyar§", and a striped textile produced in Aden from such silk and designated musayyar. 25 Precisely how these mantles and the many others mentioned in the traditions were draped we cannot know, but it is quite clear from the sources that there was a wide variety of styles. This is further corroborated by the fact that in those parts of the Islamic world where traditional wraps and mantles are still worn today there is considerable variation from one locale to the other in draping style.
In the Talmud, the cognate shÊr§ is also both a garment and the fabric. Cf. Tractates Ketubbot 63b, Shabbat 90a, and Kiddushin 32a. For some further references to this fabric in the Arab world, see R. B. Serjeant, Islamic Textiles, p. 124. 26 Georg W. Freytag, Hamasae Carmina, vol I, pt. 2 (Typis Reiis Arabicis in Fooicina Baadeni: Bonn, 1828), p. 504. , p. 383: musbil fi ’l-Èayy aÈw§ rifall. 16 chapter one Ankle-length garments were considered proper in the early umma. Shorter garments became the mark of an ascetic, longer ones the mark of a libertine.